PHA Exfoliating Toner

As we age, the process of cell regeneration slows down. It means that the body is slower to shed skin cells and generate new ones. When old skin cells start to pile up on the surface of the skin, the skin becomes looking dull, rough, and dry. The build-up of dead skin cells can also result in excess oil and clogged pores, leading to blemishes and acne.

Proper , regular exfoliation removes the barrier of dead skin cells clogging the skin and uncovers fresh new cells below. It opens the way for active products to penetrate more deeply into the skin – making them more effective. Such exfoliation is the best possible step before applying a serum, especially rich in vitamins and antioxidants fortifying skin for a revitalized complexion and newly revealed skin.

PHAs – polyhydroxy acids – are exfoliants, a special type of AHAs (alpha hydroxy acids), much more gentle for the skin. Because of their larger molecule structure, PHAs do not penetrate as deeply into the skin but rather work on the outer layers of the dermis, giving effective but gentle exfoliation. Using PHAs diminish the risk of irritation of the classic AHAs even for sensitive, rosacea prone skin. The most known PHAs are gluconolactone, lactobionic acid and galactose. Because of their large size, PHAs

PHAs – as an exfoliating alternative to more commonly used AHAs and BHAs – are better choice for delicate, sensitive skins. According to a 2004 review, apart from their exfoliating properties, “PHAs provide additional humectant and moisturization properties compared with AHAs and can enhance stratum corneum barrier function, therefore increasing the skin’s resistance to chemical challenge.” This is due to the fact that PHAs can attract and bind to large amounts of water in the air and deliver that water to our skin.

PHAs are usually safe for all skin types. They tend to be non-irritating, less sensitizing and gentler as compared to other chemical exfoliants like AHAs and BHAs. PHAs are usually a good alternative for those with sensitive skin, including rosacea and eczema, who cannot tolerate AHAs and BHAs.

According to the 2004 review, “PHAs have been found to be compatible with clinically sensitive skin, including rosacea and atopic dermatitis [(eczema)], and can be used after cosmetic procedures.” Furthermore, this hydroxy acid can benefit those with sensitive, blemish-prone skin, helping to clear breakouts and eliminate buildup without aggravating the complexion.

PHAs can be used when pregnant or breastfeeding.

Above all, PHAs are an exfoliating ingredient, meaning they remove the barrier of dead cells from skin to uncover fresh new cells. By boosting skin cell regeneration, PHAs help to diminish the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, reduce post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, dullness and roughness, pigmentation spots and uneven skin tone. Regular exfoliation helps to stimulate collagen synthesis to improve the skin’s texture and boost skin’s radiance.

PHAs are also great at moisturizing the skin. According to a 2004 review, “PHAs provide additional humectant and moisturization properties compared with AHAs and can enhance stratum corneum barrier function, therefore increasing the skin’s resistance to chemical challenge.”

They have natural antioxidant properties and are great at reducing the appearance of skin damage. They neutralize free-radical damage that can be caused by environmental pollutants and ultraviolet radiation, which is especially important when living in cities or running active, outdoor lifestyles.

Because of the fact that dead skin cells can reduce the penetration and absorption of active ingredients during skincare routine, PHAs uncover and allow the fresh skin to breathe and function without any unwanted barriers. The cleaner the skin, the easier for your products to penetrate deeper.

PHAs aren’t known for having side effects. Because of the big size of their molecules, instead of penetrating deep into the skin, they gently wash away any debris that’s sitting on top of it. This is why they are rather an easy ingredient to use. However, they are still acids, so if you have sensitive skin, you should do a patch test. If it doesn’t irritate your skin after 24 hours, incorporate it gradually into your regimen.

At LAST we never use water as a carrier for active ingredients. Instead, we replace it with resin or plant hydrosols, to make sure everything your skin gets has positive – not even neutral – influence on its condition. For the PHA Exfoliating Toner we used our own, perfectly balanced mix of frankincense hydrosol and rosemary leaf hydrosol. Both of the hydrosols have strongly calming, soothing, grounding properties, very valuable as a balance to the concentration of polihydroxy acids we used. And although the two hydrosols don’t smell too encouraging, they will make your skin even more comfortable with the formulation. The effect is worth it.